A week ago I spent two days visiting friends in Cornwall. This was my first visit to Cornwall and I immediately understood why it is a popular destination for the British who are looking for a nice holiday without leaving … Continue reading
I moved from Croscombe near Glastonbury to Exeter this past Saturday. Saturday itself was a rough day. I don’t deal well with change, especially if I’m facing it alone. I love traveling and exploring, but it’s something I’ve always done … Continue reading
After thinking it over for the last several days and speaking with my advisor, I’ve decided to come home a little early. Not much earlier than I initially planned, but early just the same. I’ve realized that much of what … Continue reading
I like to think of myself as a good planner. I’m an organized, detail-oriented person so things usually don’t get overlooked. However, when I planned out my research schedule for this project I clearly had an American semester system in mind and not a UK one.
This was my original plan:
March 11 – April 15 Fieldwork in Glastonbury
April 15 – May 16 University of Exeter
May 17 Day in London
May 18 Fly home
(The few weeks between Phase I and Phase II includes time home in FL, time in KY for sister’s graduation and a family vacation.)
June 14 – July 4 Fieldwork in Tintagel
July 5 – 8 Family Wedding in NYC
July 9 – July 29 University of Exeter
July 30 Day in London
July 31 Fly home
Now, at first glance, this schedule seemed simple and balanced. Three to four weeks of fieldwork followed by the same amount of time at the University of Exeter where I’m currently a visiting research student. Trouble is, I somehow failed to look at their academic calendar. Of the 9 total weeks I planned to stay in Exeter, only 2 of them are during active semester periods. The other 7 weeks are holidays between semesters. ARGHHHHH!!
Now, this wouldn’t be a problem if I had any other reason for being in Exeter, but I don’t! I had allotted this time to take advantage of what the university had to offer and to begin transcribing, coding, analyzing, etc. Well, the transcribing/coding I can do from basically anywhere, so really the reason I’m here is to participate in the university community as a visiting student. That’s going to be awfully hard if there’s nothing going on. I’m so frustrated with myself right now.
My initially thought was, ok, cancel the Exeter AirBnB and go back to Glastonbury to do more fieldwork. My second thought was, that’s a waste of the money I won’t get back from the Exeter AirBnB, and would cost a lot extra to find a place to stay in Glastonbury again on such short notice. And my third thought was that I have actually collected enough to work with, so maybe I should just go home? It’s $300 to change my return flight.
I’m really confused right now. I have four weeks ahead of me right now and I have no idea what to do with them. This is so unlike me. I’m a list-maker… a calendar user… I don’t do things like this. That, combined with being in a new place, and some homesickness, has me feeling really down right now… Waiting to hear back from both my advisor here at Exeter and my advisor at USF. We’ll see what they think. For now, I’m going to force myself to go outside because I’m hungry and need to find food.
This morning I walked into Coffee Zero on the High Street and the barista recognized me from the day before and asked “chai latte?” before I was even at the bar. I’m happy to be at the point now where I recognize quite a few regulars at various places around town and they also recognize me. I only have a few days left before this first bit of fieldwork is complete. I’ll be moving down to Exeter on Saturday, at which point I’m going to sort through what I have and determine where there might be gaps in the data. I have four weeks in Exeter to transcribe interviews (no small task… I have about 14 hours of audio), begin coding information and take advantage of the university’s resources. I may make one or two trips back to Glastonbury to follow-ups if necessary. And then I have to prep for three weeks of fieldwork in Tintagel. I have two weeks at the end of July to return to either site if I need more data. That said, the last week or so has been quite productive. I conducted some very interesting interviews with locals from various walks of life.
I had my first real moment of uncertainty this past Saturday. Networking had led me to two local archaeologists who insisted I meet them at their home. All my other interviews had been conducted in a public place, but they insisted on asking me over because all their “books and materials” were there. I got off the bus in Glastonbury and grabbed some coffee before walking up the lane where their house was located. I started counting the house numbers and finally came to number 12, my destination. It looks run down and honestly quite sketchy. At first glace, I might say it was abandoned or uninhabited. I was hesitant to knock on the door. For a fleeting minute all the stuff USF World made me read about safety and making smart decisions came to mind and I jokingly texted Mike that if he didn’t hear from me in an hour, I had been kidnapped at the provided address.
I ended up knocking on the door and was greeted by my two interviewees and offered tea. The inside of their home mirrored the outside and as the interview proceeded, I realized it all seemed to reflect their general existence. They are in many ways isolated in the community due to their own controversial views on archaeology in Glastonbury (not pseudo-archaeology, just unaccepted claims about the potential for Irish roots of Glastonbury), but also their palpable disdain for all things New Age in the town. They went so far as to claim that a small part of the New Age spiritualism is a front for a far right agenda. They have extensive archaeological experience stretching back to the 1980s but are extremely opinionated about certain things. I came out of that interview not sure if I had just wasted two hours of my time… and absolutely unclear about how, if at all, I could use what they’ve given me.
The interview I conducted on Monday revealed even more tensions in the town. The phrase “Witch Wars” was actually used to describe a conflict that happened between two big personalities in town about two years ago. My informant says it took many people a year to recover from the rift it created. On the surface, Glastonbury appears to be a happy, tourist, multicultural haven where so many different groups seem to miraculously coexist. Alas, when you dig below the surface a bit that isn’t always the case. So Glastonbury is, in fact, a small town with small town problems. Meanwhile, there is also a significant level of camaraderie and tolerance practiced throughout the town. The Hare Krishnas in town serve free food twice a week, which is incredibly important for the town’s fairly large (proportionate to the size of the town) homeless population.
Glastonbury Abbey itself has turned out to be a much more contested space than I initially expected. The visitors to the Abbey are an incredibly diverse group and represent a whole spectrum of beliefs and faiths. This creates the potential for tension when, like today, a very large group of visitors representing one particular set of beliefs, takes over the site, limiting its accessibility for other visitors.
Today’s visitors were from Spain and were at the Abbey for its links to King Arthur. There are two markers on the grounds. One marks where the bones of Arthur and Guinevere were supposedly found in an old cemetery in the early twelfth century. The second one marks the location where a black marble tomb once housed those bones inside the nave of the Abbey. These visitors were clustered around these two markers for the better part of two hours. I observed a variety of behaviors during their stay. There was an awful lot of hugging happening. They obviously felt energies that I could not and were embracing for elongated periods of time at certain spots in the grass. Meanwhile others were lying in the grass, supine, and others still were knelt down with their palms on the ground. Several appeared to be emotional and made facial expressions and gestures that indicated they were feeling things in their stomach and chest during their visit. Their experiences are in no way less legitimate than other’s, but I could see how the size of their group, and its physical and emotional presence, could be a distraction or deterrent for other visitors.
Similarly, many locals have seasonal passes for the Abbey and use it as more of a community park than heritage site. This means that local parents let their children climb on and play on the ruins of the Abbey. One kid, footing a soccer ball around, bounced it off a wall of the Lady Chapel on his way out. There are as many local people on the grounds having an afternoon picnic as there are tourists visiting for the first time. The docents and learning staff I interviewed today emphasized that the hardest part of their job is striking that delicate balance between all the different groups that lay claim to this site.
I have three more interviews before I leave on Saturday, and a foot-washing ceremony I want to participate in at the Chalice Well Gardens on Thursday. It’s been a whirlwind experience so far. I’ll be sad to leaving Glastonbury but I know I’ll be back, or so I’ve been told. 🙂
Last week was my second full week of fieldwork. For the most part, it was productive and successful. I conducted two in-depth interviews and collected more observational notes at various sites around Glastonbury. Last Tuesday I went down to the … Continue reading